Originally, there were about fifty-nine
"Contrade"; now only seventeen remain, ten of which take
part in the historical pageant and in the race at each
Palio (seven by right and three drawn by lots). Here
is a list of their names, emblems and colours grouped
into "Terzi" or "Terzieri" (in olden times the town was
divided into three sections called: "Terziere di Città",
"Terziere di San Martino" and "Terziere di
Camollia").
Terziere di Città
AQUILA (Eagle) a
double-headed eagle with imperial symbols. Yellow with
black and blue bands. CHIOCCIOLA (Snail) a snail.
Yellow and red with blue bands. ONDA (Wave) a
swimming dolphin wearing a crown. White and
blue. PANTERA (Panther) a rampant panther. Red and
blue with white bands. SELVA (Forest) a rhinoceros
bearing a huge tree hung with hunting implements. Green
and orange-yellow with white bands. TARTUCA
(Tortoise) a tortoise. Yellow and
blue.
Terziere di San Martino
CIVETTA (Owl) an owl.
Black and red with white bands. LEOCORN0 (Unicorn) a
unicorn. White and orange-yellow with blue
bands. NICCHIO (Shell) a seashell. Blue with yellow
and red bands. TORRE (Tower) an elephant with a tower
on its back. Dark bordeaux red with white and blue
bands. VALDIMONTONE or simply MONTONE (Ram) a rampant
ram. White and yellow with red bands.
Terziere di Camollia
BRUCO (Caterpillar) a
caterpillar. Yellow and green with blue bands. DRAGO
(Dragon) a flying dragon. Red and green with yellow
bands. GIRAFFA (Giraffe) a giraffe. White and
red. ISTRICE (Porcupine) a porcupine. White, red,
black and blue bands. LUPA (She-Wolf) the Roman
She-Wolf suckling the twins. Black and white with
orange-yellow bands. OCA (Goose) a crowned goose with
the cross of Savoia round its neck. White and green with
red bands.
The "Contrade" first appeared in the
middle of the 15th century to celebrate certain solemn
events. They were represented by special wooden devices
shaped like animals, such as, for instance, a giraffe, a
dragon, a porcupine, a she-wolf, a caterpillar, a goose
etc. - worked from inside by the youngsters of the
districts they represented. They were called after the
animals themselves.
Very soon these associations
began to organize shows of their own, such as: bull
hunting (suppressed in 1590), buffalo races (only until
1650), donkey races and a game called "Giuoco delle
Pugna".
In ancient times (besides the usual
horse-races which took place in many towns of Italy to
celebrate certain particular religious and civil events)
the Sienese played other kinds of games, such as:
Mazzascudo (mace and shield) because the players bore
maces and shields; the Giorgiani in honour of San
Giorgio (battles with blunt weapons); Elmora detto dei
cestarelli because the players wore certain funny
baskets (cestarelli) on their heads; le Pugna (punching)
abolished in 1324 because the players started throwing
stones at one another, then weapons and sticks were used
and a real battle ensued. To re-establish order the
Bishop was compelled to descend into the square with a
train of priests and monks. "La pallonata", a game
played between the "Terzi" of the town. A huge ball was
thrown from the top of the "Mangia" tower by the
youngsters of one of the "Terzi" into the field of their
opponents. This game was played on January 13, 1555 for
Biagio di Montluc, the French Marshall.
Of all
these games only the Palio has survived. The
preparations for this parade are slow and methodic like
a liturgical procedure. Four days before the day of the
Palio trials take place in the "Campo" square which is
turned into a race track. A thick layer of earth is
spread on the ground and a row of mattresses is placed
against the walls at the dangerous corner of San Martino
to protect the jokeys in case they fall.
The whole square is amazingly fit for such
manifestations because its shape is that of a mediaeval
Roman amphitheatre closed at the base by the straight
line of the Palazzo Pubblico. Besides being
semi-circular this peculiar square is also funnel-shaped
like the theatres of the imperial age. Eleven streets
run into it, though it is extremely difficult to
percieve them from the middle of the square. All around
the track, perched up against the walls of the houses,
seats are arranged one behind and above the other like
bleachers. Windows, balconies and loggias, too, are made
ready for the visitors; 33,000 seats in all, but they
are far from sufficient and are always sold out long
before the day of the performance. In the centre of the
square there is room for about 28,000 people to stand,
but this is not enough either and the roofs, the turrets
and the cornices of the old houses looking on to the
square are also crowded. There are people everywhere,
even in the most unlikely places.
On both the
appointed days every year the "Contrade" - that is to
say all the Sienese population - compete for a prize
which is but a hand painted silk banner (pallium). Each
"Contrada" is represented by a group of young men called
"Comparsa" arranged as follows: one drummer, two
flag-bearers, with their flags, one "Duce", two grooms,
one page carrying a flag with two pages at his sides
carrying the emblems of the "Contrada", the race-horse
called barbero with a jockey called "barbaresco", last
the jokey who is to run the race on a parade horse
called "soprallasso" followed by a groom.
The
historical parade is a lively display of rich medieval
costumes which date back to the time period from 1430 to
1480; their colours are as bright as one may fancy. The
procession goes winding its way round the "Campo" square
in the following order: the flag-bearer of the Commune
on horseback bearing the standard of Siena (the black
and white Balzana) followed by his groom, a group of
drummers, a group of trumpeters and musicians called
"musici di Palazzo" playing the march composed for the
Palio by Pietro Formichi in 1875 on their bugles, the
Captains, the representatives of the "Podestà" (called
podesterie), the flag-bearers with the standards of the
"Terzieri" of the town and of the lands belonging to the
Commune called "Masse", the flag-bearers of the
Corporations of the Arts and Crafts, the captain of the
peopIe (Capitano del popolo) on horseback and a group of
flag-bearers with the flags of the old Sienese
Republic. Next come the representatives of the
"Contrade" called "comparse". The first ten are those
which are to run in the palio horse race; they are
followed by a row of young pages bearing festoons of
laurel leaves and then by the seven "Contrade" that do
not run (they have no "barbero" and no
jockey).
Next comes the captain of Justice
(Capitano di Giustizia) riding a horse and then the
representatives of the seven "Contrade" that no longer
exist: Cock, Lion, Beam, Oak, Sword, Viper. Last comes
the triumphal chariot (carroccio) drawn by huge oxen. In
the chariot are seated the four "Provveditori di
Biccherna" (administrative authority who in times of
yore used to superintend public representations, along
with the oriflamme of the Commune, the Palio to be
awarded to the victor, and a group of
trumpeters.
When this magnificent pageant has
slowly gone round the square, all the representatives go
to sit on a platform raised just for the purpose beneath
the windows of the "Palazzo Pubblico". When they have
all been seated ther, they look like a strange army
after some brilliant victory, or a train of heroes or of
poets ready to enter Paradise. As soon as everything is
quiet, the flag-bearers from all of the "Contrade"
perform together with their flags in what is most
commonally known as "gioco delle bandiere". They throw
them high up into the air and catch them again before
they touch the ground; it is a splendid, most decorative
display of colours accompanied by the beating of drums,
the sound of bugles and trumpets and the chimes of the
big bell on top of the "Mangia" tower; the little bell
on the chariot, known in Siena as "Martinella", is also
very busy ringing.
All of this is but a prelude,
a time of anxiety and expectation. When at last the
horses appear and the race starts, the crowd becomes
delirious. The jockeys goad their horses round the
square three times and the people shout as if the town
were about to fall.
The spirit of Siena is in the
very colours of her "Contrade" and in all the
manifestations connected with each of them. First of
all, the benediction of the horses and jockeys, each in
the church of their own "Contrada", early in the
afternoon just before the Palio. It is this spirit that
animates the whole manifestation and contributes such
enthusiasm and pathos to the scene.
This
traditional popular manifestation lasts four days (from
June 29 to July 2 and from August 13 to 16) and finishes
in the streets of the victorious "Contrada" where the
people celebrate the happy event in a most joyous way.
Winner pays all.
Whoever happens to be in Siena
during these exciting days can, but join in the
enthusiasm of the people for the Palio and, of course,
the final victory. Visitors, in fact, often go roaming
through the winding streets of the ancient town
sympathizing with the "Contrada" in which they are
living; they do their best to understand the alliances
and rivalries between the contradas and temporarily
become fervent "contradaioli" (as the inhabitants of
each Contrada are called) having much at heart the
health of the race horse and of the jockey.
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